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Opua Crossroads of the North
Its character carved from the passage of time and the rich and various activities that surrounded its port, Opua is a place of considerable historical interest.

It was first a stronghold of the Ngati Hine people, the rugged bluff of Puketiti offering a 360 degree vantage point. Purchased by Henry Williams in 1831on behalf of the Church Mission Society, the area became a no-mans land and was referred to as One Tree Point after a large pohutukawa tree growing at the foot of the cliff.
The Bay of Islands County Council (formed in 1876) decided that "a township be laid out at One Tree Point opposite Old Russell". This was to coincide with the building of a proposed railway line from the coalmines at Kawakawa to a deep-water port. By 1881 the surveyor H.J. Sealy produced a plan of "Newport", all streets being named after notable naval explorers of the North West Passage.
In 1884 the 7 ½ mile long railway line was completed and a wharf built. Part of the headland Puketiti and the pohutukawa tree were excavated. The S.S. Wellington became the first ship to lie alongside the coal wharf. Island traders, intercolonial steamers and naval ships berthed to bunker with Kawakawa coal.
Te Wharau, about halfway up the Opua River was known as "The Loading Ground" as it was here that colliers loaded coal from Kawakawa. It was a flourishing settlement but ship movements were restricted by the tides. In 1886 the school from Te Wharau was shifted to Opua. Traders also relocated. The store was shifted to the lagoon then built on its present site. Opuas genesis was Te Wharaus demise.
Children came to school by foot, by horse by rowboat and yacht. An old whale chaser brought them from as far away as Waitangi, the run calling at Paihia, Te Haumi, English Bay, Te Wahapu, Omata and Okiato.
In 1895 a road was formed between Opua and inland Waimate. Opua became an important crossroads for sea, rail and road transport.
By 1899 the Kawakawa coal mines had all but collapsed. The Government indicated its intention to remove the line between Kawakawa and Opua. Locals were angry. One stormy meeting attended by the Rt. Hon. R.J. Seddon ended in fisticuffs. The line remained.
The Bay of Islands Harbour Board was formed in 1920 and by 1921 Auckland Farmers Freezing Works at Moerewa came into production. The Opua wharf was extended to accommodate refrigerated cargo. The Opawa took the first shipment by lighter in February 1922 with the S. S. Devon the first to berth alongside.
Wharfies worked 24 hour shifts and lived in a bunkhouse built on the end of the wharf. They were served meals on board ship.
During the war ships were sunk ex Opua and the port was closed for the duration. The last ship was the Port Chalmers in January 1941. Opua being of strategic importance now, army and naval personnel had barracks there. A road from Opua to Kawakawa was soon built, ramps at Opua and Okiato constructed and the road continued to Russell. The army operated a launch and barge to ferry their machinery and personnel to the coast.
With the war years over a new war began, "The Battle of The Ports" between Whangarei and Opua over which was to be the port for North Auckland. The Opua wharf was rebuilt and the Suffolk became the first refrigerated ship to berth. Meat, butter, tallow, milk powder and by-products were exported through Opua. Opua, the "farmers port" held the New Zealand record for the fastest loading. Tourist ships, many of the worlds largest, spent a day in port.
However, 1965 saw a politically directed amalgamation of Whangarei and Opua ports take place. Shipping declined, then eventually ceased.
Now, instead of mercantile ships and exotic cruise liners, yacht charterers, fisheries, a marina and associated industry retain Opuas maritime atmosphere.
In step with all the different activities, Opua has always retained a strong sense of identity.
Myra Larcombe

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